The original Air Itam Laksa stall made famous by Uncle Seong and featured by Anthony Bourdain.
Most visitors are in for a surprise when they discover there are three Penang Air Itam Laksa stalls at the foot of Kek Lok Si. This is where it starts to feel like a pilgrimage for the soul of Penang’s street food.
Let’s get one thing straight if you’re not a Penangite. Penang Air Itam Laksa is not the creamy, santan-heavy curry laksa you find in KL.
What Makes Real Penang Assam Laksa Hit Different
The real Penang assam laksa is sharp, spicy, and loaded with poached mackerel (ikan kembung). It hits hard.
In a city where nothing stays the same, these three stalls in Air Itam have held their ground, even though the styles and experience are completely different. It sits firmly within the wider world of Malaysian Laksa, but this version leans fully into the sour, fish-forward Penang style.
Depending entirely on your palate, you might prefer a bowl that is super spicy, very sour, or slightly sweet.
If you have the appetite, try all three. The last stall even gives you a way to cool off with a bowl of cendol.
IMPORTANT: The Airport Panic Warning
If you’re planning to try Air Itam Laksa, check the opening hours carefully. Some stalls only open three weekends a month for lunch. Plan ahead and give yourself buffer time.
Do not make laksa your last meal before heading to the airport. If you have a sensitive stomach, this is not the dish to gamble on before a long-haul flight.
Traffic in Air Itam can be brutal. If the stall is closed or the queue is long, you may end up choosing between a bowl of noodles and making your flight. That is not a fun decision.
| Stall Name | Best Known For | Location Type | Quick Vibe |
|---|---|---|---|
| Famous Air Itam Market Laksa | Rich, dark mackerel broth; Bourdain’s pick | Famous roadside corner | Historic, busy, intense flavor |
| Laksa Bisu | Lighter, torch-ginger forward broth; local secret | Inside the wet market annex | Nostalgic, peaceful, oldest stall |
| 2828 Asam Laksa | Generous fish chunks; cooling Cendol | Opposite De View Hotel | More comfortable, roofed seating |
Famous Air Itam Market Laksa
(Uncle Seong’s Legacy)
The original Air Itam Laksa stall made famous by Uncle Seong and featured by Anthony Bourdain.
Much of the legacy of this legendary corner stall belongs to Uncle Seong (Ang Kak Seong), who ran the business for decades and passed away in April 2026 at the age of 77. He was the one who served Anthony Bourdain in 2012 for No Reservations. Bourdain sat on a plastic stool, took a bite, and was immediately won over, describing it as a bowl for those who love complex, spicy, and deeply savory broths and ranking it among the best soups in the world.
Today, the family continues his 70-year legacy at the busy market intersection.
The broth here is the classic style. It is thick, dark, and rich, made with flaked mackerel blended thoroughly into the soup. It easily has the strongest, boldest flavor profile of the three.
Famous Air Itam Market Laksa
Location: Jalan Pasar, Pekan Ayer Itam, 11500 Ayer Itam, Pulau Pinang (The famous corner stall beside the wet market)
Opening Hours: Weekends only (usually 3 weeks a month), 10:30 AM – 7:00 PM
Price: ~RM 6.00 – RM 7.00 per bowl
Laksa Bisu
The quiet veteran.
Laksa Bisu, the quiet veteran stall inside Air Itam Market known for its lighter, balanced broth
This quiet veteran stall sits inside the Air Itam Wet Market annex and is widely seen as the insider choice for Penang Air Itam Laksa. If you want to avoid the Bourdain-driven crowds, this is where you go.
The name comes from the fact that many customers didn’t realize the uncle running the stall cannot speak or hear. Be patient when ordering.
Established in 1948, this is actually the oldest of the three stalls. The broth is noticeably lighter and brighter, with the aroma of torch ginger (bunga kantan) coming through more clearly. It feels closer to a home-style bowl that has stayed true over time.
Laksa Bisu
Location: Inside the Air Itam Market Food Court (Annex), Jalan Pasar, 11500 Ayer Itam, Pulau Pinang
Opening Hours: Daily (Closed Tuesday and Wednesday), 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Price: ~RM 5.50 – RM 6.50 per bowl
2828 Asam Laksa
(The Modern Contender)
2828 Asam Laksa, a contender known for generous chunks of fish fillet and a more comfortable dining setup.
I stumbled upon this stall completely by chance while walking back to my car. It sits opposite De View Hotel and has quietly built a strong reputation in the local food scene. At around 15 years old, it is the newest of the three, but it completely holds its own.
The big difference here is the fish presentation. Instead of just fully flaked fish dissolved into the soup, they add generous chunks of fillet right on top.
If the spice gets too intense, this is also the best place to order a refreshing bowl of cendol. With a proper roof and a bit more space, the overall dining experience is much more comfortable.
Personally, I prefer a spicy and very sour Penang Assam Laksa that is reddish and features prominent fish fillets, which makes this spot a personal favorite that deserves a lot more spotlight.
2828 Asam Laksa Details
Location: Cafe 2828, 613-G, Jalan Pasar, Pekan Ayer Itam, 11500 Ayer Itam, Pulau Pinang
Opening Hours: Daily, 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM (Closed Wednesday)
Price: ~RM 7.00 – RM 8.00 per bowl
Reality Check for Visitors
- There is no air conditioning. You will sweat. You will be eating hot soup in tropical heat right next to a boiling pot.
- There are no hosts. If you want a seat, you wait behind someone who looks like they are about to finish and move in fast.
- You will share tables with strangers. Space is tight, and that communal hustle is part of the authentic experience.
SmartDory’s Pro Tip
Skip driving to the foot of Kek Lok Si. The roads are incredibly narrow and parking is notoriously difficult.
Take a Grab or hop on the Rapid Penang 201 or 204 bus instead. It is a small logistical cost for a much easier food hunt.
Nothing stays the same, but the spirit behind Penang Air Itam Laksa is still alive in every bowl. Go hungry and expect to leave a little sweaty.
