Chee Cheong Fun is more than just a dish to me.
It’s part of my childhood, my routine, my story.
In Penang, we enjoy it a little differently.
Instead of the usual dim sum version filled with char siu or shrimp and drenched in soy sauce, we serve it simply.
Here, the silky rice rolls come with a medley of sweet sauce, chilli, and hae ko—that unforgettable umami from fermented shrimp paste.
Sticky, pungent, and deeply savoury, this dark sauce is what gives Penang-style rice rolls their cult status.
A Familiar Taste Since the 1970s
I grew up in the 1970s, when breakfast meant walking into a familiar kopitiam, hearing the clink of porcelain cups, and smelling freshly brewed kopi-O.
Our family had two regular haunts: Hai Onn Restaurant and Kedai Kopi Seow Fong Lye, then located along Burma Road.
At Seow Fong Lye, two other stalls ruled the breakfast scene.
- Uncle Ah Hai’s Koay Teow Th’ng (which moved here from Hai Onn)
- Sisters’ Yao Char Koay Kak
I was never good at choosing between them since I loved all three.
Often, I’d just rotate between my top favourites—sometimes even ordering from more than one stall in a single sitting!
After Uncle Ah Hai passed away, I began alternating between the Char Koay Kak and my go-to rice rolls.
Each bite brought back memories of childhood breakfasts—the kind that linger long after the plates are cleared.
Penang-Style Perfection
Simple. Sublime. Sticky with hae ko.
This Penang favourite is basic yet bold.
Thick, silky noodles are sliced into chunky ribbons and slathered with:
- Sweet sticky sauce
- A dab of chilli sauce
- Drizzle of Heko
A splash of sesame oil and a sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds top it all off.
That’s it. No fuss. Just full-on flavour.
It looks downright messy, but ask any local and they’ll say: this is what real Penang tastes like.
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Macalister Lane’s Legendary Stall
Many still refer to it as Seow Fong Lye or Macalister Road Chee Cheong Fun, a nod to its Burma Road origins.
This humble business has been around since 1955.
Possibly one of the oldest in town—and still drawing a loyal weekend crowd.
This humble business has been around since 1955.
Possibly one of the oldest in town—and still drawing a loyal weekend crowd.
A Nostalgic Penang Breakfast
This Sunday morning, I returned for a proper breakfast.
I ordered my two staples: Char Koay Kak (still as crispy and fragrant as ever) and a plate of rice rolls.
Sitting there with my kopi by my side, I noticed the crowd had changed.
Gone were the uncles with newspapers and aunties with their marketing baskets.
These days, the kopitiam is filled with tourists and young families, often led by elders eager to share stories of “the good old days.”
It made me realise—some things change, but some stay comfortingly the same.
Final Thoughts
If you’ve never tried Penang-style Chee Cheong Fun, let this be your sign.
Go early, find a seat at Seow Fong Lye Café on Macalister Lane, and order a plate.
Don’t forget the Char Koay Kak while you’re at it. You’ll thank me later.
Because in Penang, breakfast isn’t just a meal—it’s a memory waiting to be made (or relived).
💡 Tip: Go early—especially on weekends. The queue builds up fast!
Chee Cheong Fun @ Macalister Lane
Location: Home Café Seow Fong Lye
Address: 94C, Lorong Macalister, Georgetown, 10400 George Town, Penang
Phone: 016-452 5948
Opening Hours:
Mon–Tue, Fri–Sun: 7:15 AM – 12:00 PM
Closed on Wednesday & Thursday
Blog Disclosure: This blog is independently written. No compensation, free meals, or services were received. These are the editor’s personal favourites in Penang.
