The original Air Itam Laksa stall made famous by Uncle Seong and featured by Anthony Bourdain
Most visitors are in for a surprise when they discover there are three Air Itam Laksa stalls at the foot of Kek Lok Si.
This is where it starts to feel like a pilgrimage for the soul of Penang’s street food.
Let’s get one thing straight if you’re not a Penangite: Air Itam Laksa is not the creamy, santan-heavy curry laksa you find in KL.
Real Penang assam laksa is sharp, spicy, and loaded with poached mackerel (ikan kembung). It hits hard.
In a city where nothing stays the same, these three stalls in Air Itam have held their ground, even though the styles and experience are completely different.
It sits firmly within the wider world of Malaysian Laksa, but this version leans fully into the sour, fish-forward Penang style.
If you have the appetite, try all three.
The last stall even gives you a way to cool off with a bowl of cendol.
IMPORTANT: The Airport Panic Warning
If you’re planning to try Air Itam Laksa, check the opening hours carefully. Some stalls only open three weekends a month for lunch. Plan ahead and give yourself buffer time.
Do not make laksa your last meal before heading to the airport. If you have a sensitive stomach, this is not the dish to gamble on before a long-haul flight.
Traffic in Air Itam can be brutal. If the stall is closed or the queue is long, you may end up choosing between a bowl of noodles and making your flight. That is not a fun decision.
Air Itam Laksa
A classic bowl of Air Itam Laksa with rich, tangy fish broth and flaked mackerel
The legacy of Uncle Seong is the legendary corner stall that put Air Itam Laksa on the world map.
Much of that legacy belongs to Uncle Seong (Ang Kak Seong), who ran the stall for decades and passed away in April 2026 at the age of 77.
He was the one who served Anthony Bourdain in 2012 for No Reservations.
Bourdain sat on a plastic stool, took a bite, and was immediately won over.
He described it as a bowl for those who love complex, spicy, and deeply savory broths.
And ranked it among the best soups in the world.
Today, the family continues his 70-year legacy.
Penang Air Itam Laksa
Location: Jalan Pasar, Paya Terubong (the one with the blue bowls)
Opening Hours: Weekends only (usually 3 weeks a month), 10:30 AM – 7:00 PM
Price: ~RM 6.00 – RM 7.00 per bowl
The broth is classic style. Thick, dark, and rich, made with flaked mackerel blended into the soup. It has the strongest, boldest flavor of the three.
Laksa Bisu
Laksa Bisu, the quiet veteran stall inside Air Itam Market known for its lighter, balanced broth
This quiet veteran stall sits inside the Air Itam Wet Market annex and is widely seen as the insider choice for Air Itam Laksa.
If you want to avoid the Bourdain-driven crowds, this is where you go.
The name comes from the fact that many customers didn’t realize the uncle running the stall cannot speak or hear.
Be patient when ordering.
Laksa Bisu
Location: Inside the Air Itam Market Food Court (Annex)
Opening Hours: Daily (closed Tuesday and Wednesday), 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Price: ~RM 5.50 – RM 6.50 per bowl
Established in 1948, this is actually the oldest of the three. The broth is lighter and brighter, with the torch ginger (bunga kantan) coming through more clearly. It feels closer to a home-style bowl that has stayed true over time.
2828 Asam Laksa
2828 Asam Laksa, a newer contender known for generous chunks of fish and a more comfortable setup
I found this stall by accident while walking back to my car.
It sits opposite De View Hotel and has quietly built a strong reputation in the Air Itam Laksa scene.
At around 15 years old, it is the newest of the three, but it holds its own.
Personally, I prefer spicy and very sour Penang Assam Laksa that is reddish and has fish fillets.
2828 Asam Laksa (Cafe 2828)
Location: 613-G, Jalan Pasar, Pekan Ayer Itam, 11500 Ayer Itam, Pulau Pinang
Opening Hours: Daily, 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM (Wednesday close)
Price: ~RM 7.00 – RM 8.00 per bowl
The difference here is the fish. Instead of just flaked fish, they add generous chunks of fillet on top.
If the spice gets too intense, this is also the best place to order cendol.
It has a proper roof and a bit more space, which makes the experience more comfortable.
Reality Check
- There is no air conditioning. You will sweat. You will be eating hot soup in tropical heat next to a boiling pot.
- There are no hosts. If you want a seat, you wait behind someone who looks like they are about to finish and move in fast.
- You will share tables with strangers. Space is tight, and that is part of the experience.
Dory’s Pro Tip
Skip driving. The roads are narrow and parking is difficult. Take a Grab or the Rapid Penang 201 or 204 bus. It is a small cost for a much easier experience.
Nothing stays the same, but the spirit behind Air Itam Laksa is still alive in every bowl. Go hungry and expect to leave a little sweaty.
