The Hong Kong Bar first opened in 1920.
It was Penang’s most notorious bar – a favored watering hole for RAAF servicemen and backpackers in Penang Island.
For senior Penangites, we are glad it is still open after surviving the Covid-19 pandemic.
In its heydays, it was the “official” hangout for the Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) military personnel stationed in Penang and Butterworth and visiting sailors.
As a Penangite, I took almost six decades to walk into the Hong Kong Bar.
I remember along the side lane was a Hainanese Kopitiam lean to shed against the fence wall of the notorious Nam Wah Hotel (now the Halab Penang).
Before World War II, the area around Chulia Street, Cintra Street, and Campbell Street were notorious as George Town’s red-light district.
From the late 19th century to the early 20th century, brothels existed in Campbell Street, Cintra Street, Rope Walk, and Kuala Kangsar Road in Penang.
From 1958 to 1988, The Hong Kong Bar was the most infamous along Chulia Street.
Walking into the bar was different for young Penang ladies in my time.
Clandestine Adventures
Does the HKB exude an enigmatic atmosphere of clandestine environments of the 20s?
We paused to listen to the stories the walls whispered as we walked in.
The old bar today wears the greyness of authenticity and self-assertion.
It smiles at the memories and with a nostalgia of brazen youthfulness.
The past offers delights and evokes a time of drunkenness irretrievably lost.
Today, the bar is meek and museum-like.
The Hong Kong Bar as it stands today.
Penang’s Old Red Light Districts
“Before World War II, the area around Chulia Street, Cintra Street and Campbell Street was known as George Town’s red-light district.
In fact, Campbell Street was the hub for such activities; and the name 新街 easily became a pun for the term “new chicken”, or “fresh prostitutes”.
The Malays referred to it as Jalan Nona Baru or “street of new maidens”, and as Jalan Makao, indicating a sizeable population of people from Macau on Penang Island.
Thus, at its peak from the late 19th to the early 20th century, Campbell Street was famed for prostitution, gambling and opium smoking.”
Source: Penang Monthly: A Red-light District Worthy of a Vibrant Port
“… the wealthy frequented night clubs where gambling and opium smoking was carried on a big scale with the shrill noise of sing-song girls as a background to the gaiety… Campbell Street was in those days the brothel centre of the town and at sunset it became a ricksha parade.”
Source: “Penang Night Life Not What It Was”, The Straits Times, September 21, 1937, p.12
Hong Kong Bar, Chulia Street
RAAF took control of the Butterworth base in 1958.
Between 1958 till 1988, thousands of RAAF service members and their families made Penang their home.
In the good old days, it was packed to the rafters every Friday when RAAF Butterworth was in full swing.
The walls of the HKB were adorned with a mishmash of medals, plaques, and life buoy rings.
There was an exciting collection of photo albums marked with years of soldiers who had visited the bar.
Until today, children of the soldiers have visited iconic bar looking through thousands of photos for those of their father.
Last week I made a quick stop at the “oldest bar” in George Town with my friends Stephanie and John.
They stayed at a heritage hotel on Love Lane.
That night we had dinner at The Loft and wanted to enjoy the best bars in Penang.
As most of George Town’s most popular nightclubs and bars can now be found on Love Lane, it is surprising for many to discover the Hong Kong Bar.
Stephaine had planned visits to the Pokok, Manchu, and Mish Mash (temporarily closed).
I suggested Cafe Antarabangsa and the Hong Kong Bar for their unique history.
On a previous trip, they had been to a rooftop bar in Penang – the Gravity Rooftop Bar, G Hotel Kelawai.
I finally stepped foot into Hong Kong Bar on Chulia Street for the first time.
For John, it was love at first sight.
Jenny Tan, the owner, still lives upstairs and runs the place her parents bought from the original owners in 1953.
Sadly, her brother Peter has passed away.
The siblings inherited the HKB, patronized by locals, tourists, backpackers, and the occasional visiting sailors.
The regulars were the RAAF servicemen from the air force base in Butterworth.
Nowadays, Jenny keeps herself occupied by running the bar and socializing with patrons.
Jenny made friends with John immediately and invited him to sign the guestbook.
Everything looked vintage and comfortable, and we fit right in without looking like Grandpa and Grandma Shark just hit the joint!
There’s no air-conditioning, but no worries, it was a cool night, and we went there in light clothing.
Memorabilia Wall at Hong Kong Bar.
John loved the old-school sensibility and quiet atmosphere, plus they serve stouts here.
The bar was super chill and old-fashioned but in a perfect way.
“With none of that head-banging music, people can talk to each other here,” John quipped.
The bar was razed to the ground in 2004.
All the memorabilia collected through the years are gone, but donors soon had the walls and ceilings covered in colonial-era photographs and regalia.
Usually, the lovely host, Jenny, would play some golden oldies before the music from the other bars blasted into the night.
I was looking forward to sweet 50s, 60s, and 70s oldies but goodies.
Stephanie and I took turns taking photos or just sat there taking in all that history displayed on the wall.
John chit-chatted with a few of the men who dropped in, an MM2H living on the island’s other side.
Another was the son of an RAF/RAAF serviceman. He spent his time reviewing photo albums from the 1980s to look for a photo of his father.
The HKB has a custom of keeping photos of all its customers.
You could spend hours browsing through them and checking out some good-looking men in uniform (who are probably great-grandfathers now!)
Image: jessekar_
Drinks Menu
One will not get flaming cocktails, fancy mocktails, or the latest gins, vodkas, and whiskies.
The Hong Kong Bar is perfect for simpler times when a drink is a cheap beer, ale, or stout.
The setting was perfect for those wanting a good time with friends and some drinks, and John had his stout.
Stephanie sipped a Coca-Cola.
“Too much sugar,” we said to each other laughingly.
“Ask for ice.”
I had my tonic water, and all’s good in the world.
We were in our little oasis, listening to the live music belting out from Pokok across Chulia Street.
If “Smoke Gets In Your Eyes” played in the background, everything would be perfect!
Memorabilia Wall
Hong Kong Bar (HKB) History
The HKB is a family-run business that has kept its doors open since 1955.
A friend to all RAF and RAAF Butterworth servicemen, this favorite watering hole is packed with mementos.
From Chulia Street, the bar looks a little worn compared to her neighbors, Halab Restaurant and the glitzy Gravy Baby.
Its signboard has the red words Hong Kong Bar carved onto the twin columns fronting the pre-war shophouse.
Like one of those old-style bars long past its prime, the bar has tired-looking furniture and only a few customers but brimming with tales and history.
The furnishing is simple: a long wooden bar, a few tables pushed to the walls and an odd assortment of chairs.
What sets this old bar apart from its newer counterparts is the hundreds of plaques and souvenirs lining its walls.
The Hong Kong Bar was a well-known watering hole for Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) servicemen, sailors, and tourists from the 1960s to the 1980s.
It has been a significant part of the social life for many military personnel, including the Australian Army.
The camaraderie and bonding over a drink at the Bar are essential aspects of military culture, giving much-needed relief from the strain of deployment and training.
It’s a place where soldiers can unwind, share stories, and strengthen the bonds of brotherhood.
The bar serves as a place for troops to relax, celebrate achievements, commemorate fallen comrades, and build lasting connections.
It plays a pivotal role in the military’s social fabric, and the experiences shared within these establishments often form cherished memories for those who serve.
For former RAAF personnel and airmen, stepping into the quiet little bar is a chance to reminisce over the good old times.
Many airmen had spent years in the RAAF Butterworth ( now RMAF Butterworth the Tentera Udara Diraja Malaysia Butterworth) base.
Some returned periodically for a cold beer, just like the good old times, and to browse the photo albums of the other RAAF servicemen who gathered here.
For younger ones, their deployment was a memorable rite of passage.
The plaques that survived the fire with words and emblems faded are proudly displayed along the front part of the bar.
The fire in 2014 left behind only twisted metal.
Since then, whenever RAAF platoons visit the Butterworth base, they drop by and leave mementos like caps and soft toys.
Bagged soft toys hang from Rafia strings tied to the ceiling.
The new wall plaques, most by RAAF visiting platoons, now adorn another section of the bar’s wall.
The Hong Kong Bar is one stop every RAAF serviceman will remember fondly of their days in Penang.
It went beyond the beer and Friday night drinking session.
Like Jenny and her family, the people behind the bar welcomed one and all.
The easy friendship and how they treat servicemen like family here.
Today, the bar is almost forgotten and can hardly compete with many newer bars and pubs along the busy main road.
Young people prefer newer places with modern music.
The bar is open from 3 pm to midnight on most days, depending on the business.
Image: @ddd_visuals
Conclusion
An old-school bar with a great character and infamous in George Town has been around since 1920.
Recommend that everyone drop in, enjoy at least two cold beers, and chat with the owner.
Chulia Street, the main artery, connects the jetties and piers to the cheap hotels, hawker food, and nightlife on the tap.
In the evenings, Chulia Street becomes lively with Western backpackers staying in hostels and locals dining at various eateries.
Other bars along the street have closed over the years, but the Hong Kong Bar still stands today to serve one and all.
The bar soon filled up, so we decided to call it a night there and head to Manchu.
Update: 16 September 2024
John and Steph made another visit to Penang with me in tow.
He wanted to see ‘Aunty’ Jenny for a couple of Guinnesses.
We girls order the same drinks every time: Coke Zero for Steph and Schweppes Tonic Water for me.
Total bill RM47 for the night.
John signs the guest book every time he visits.
We lingered, took photos, and chatted with ‘Aunty’ Jenny, who regaled us with stories about the bar’s popularity and its heyday.
The Hong Kong Bar’s central location was perfect for the ‘boys’ who would drop by for drinks, step out for a bit, and then return to continue the night.
She prattled on about a long list of bars and known brothels in the vicinity, her eyes twinkling and a smile lingered on her face.
We tried to count and laughed.
John asked if there were names in English. There were none.
It was a case of “If you know, you know.”
Next to the bar was the defunct Nam Wah Hotel (a brothel), which later became Reggae Mansion and is now Halab Penang, a Middle Eastern restaurant.
Hong Kong Bar
Address: 10200, 371, Lebuh Chulia, 10200 George Town, Penang
Business Hours: 3pm – 12am
Phone: 04-261 9796
Google: https://g.co/kgs/YdDdSNb
For more about the Hong Kong Bar, you may continue to rad other links below
Malay Mail: Hong Kong Bar: The RAAF’s unofficial museum
Penang Monthly: A Red-light District Worthy of a Vibrant Port
you forgot to mention the Australian Army , for who the Bar was a mainstay of their social life when let out of base after training.
Dear Michael,
Thank you for highlighting the importance of the Hong Kong Bar in the Australian Army’s social life. I will add in some details later.
Best regards,
Dory
Please note that Hong Kong Bar was not infamous but famous to the seafarers and soldiers since mid 1950. The Bar was not notorious. It was run by the Tan family since 1953. The children were brought up there and when old enough helped to run it. To say it is infamous and notorious does not do justice to describe Hong Hong Bar.