Tonight, I had the privilege of enjoying the last plate of Hailam Chicken Chop at Soo Guan, surrounded by the owners and close friends.
As I stepped into the restaurant, I couldn’t help but notice that only two staff members remained -Kak, the skilled chef, and a young multitasking server and cashier.
Despite the mixed emotions in the air, the place was alive with a vibrant atmosphere as new customers and loyal regulars flocked in, eager to savor their favorite dishes.
During our gathering, the gracious lady boss shared a heartwarming anecdote about an uncle who had visited the restaurant not once but twice that final day – indulging in two servings of his beloved Chicken Chop.
This tale was a gentle reminder that life’s unexpected moments often have hidden meaning, even if we don’t immediately grasp it.
As we sat together that evening, the owners, another couple, and Dory came together to celebrate the life and legacy of Soo Guan, the owner’s beloved grandfather.
With every delightful bite, the owner shared poignant stories of his childhood, recounting the tender moments when his grandfather lovingly prepared a plate of Chicken Chop for him.
This cherished family recipe was passed down through generations, from his mother to his wife.
It was a profound realization that what we were savoring was more than just a dish—a symbol of treasured family heritage.
Turning to me, the owner’s wife remarked,
‘Dory, there’s always a first time for everything. You’ve attended countless restaurant openings and business events, but today, you bear witness to the closing of one.’
Her words resonated deeply, and I felt a profound sense of honor and humility in sharing this important meal.
Soo Guan Journey from Kangar to Penang
Looking back at Soo Guan’s history, we discover its journey began in Kangar, Perlis, in 1952.
Over the years, Soo Guan Restoran has gained a stellar reputation for its Colonial Style Hainanese cuisine, captivating diners with a diverse menu catering to local and Western tastes.
The world of Hailam or Hainanese Chicken Chop offers a plethora of variations, with flavors meticulously refined by chefs who are attentive to the preferences of their patrons.
Each Hainanese chef has developed a unique breading method and frying the chicken cutlet.
Even the accompanying gravy displays regional variations as you traverse different parts of Malaysia.
This unwavering attention to detail was integral to the owner’s culinary journey before Soo Guan opened its doors in 2019.
Their quest took them across the length and breadth of Peninsula Malaysia, exploring different versions and recipes in their pursuit of perfection.
Their ultimate goal was to preserve the heritage recipes from Soo Guan to his daughter and now his daughter-in-law.
The food at Soo Guan was not only delicious but also reasonably priced.
However, as is customary in Hainanese eateries, one must be patient and wait for the service.
Hainanese chefs are known for their commitment to cooking everything from scratch, ensuring the authenticity and flavors of local food cultures and traditions are preserved.
A kindred organization, Slow Food, was established in 1989 as a global grassroots movement with a similar mission.
It seeks to safeguard and revive local food traditions, countering the dominance of fast food and industrialized agriculture.
An Evening of Bittersweet Farewells
Our evening at Soo Guan was a bittersweet and unforgettable experience, filled with captivating stories, tantalizing flavors, and a deep appreciation for tradition.
As our last meal, the chef prepared two signature items from the menu – Soo Guan’s Hailam Chicken Chop and the Colonial Hailam Style Beef Stew.
Soo Guan’s Hailam Chicken Chop
Soo Guan’s signature “Silver Spoon” Hailam Chicken Chop was initially crafted to cater to the discerning palates of the Perlis royalty.
This beloved Hainanese Chicken Chop showcases boneless chicken coated in a crispy batter and delectable sides of potato wedges, bun, tomatoes, greens, and peas.
To enhance the dish, it is served with a homemade Hainanese brown gravy that boasts a delightful tang, free from tomatoes. For me, this plate was full of nostalgia.
Soo Guan’s Hailam Chicken Chop
Colonial Hailam Style Beef Stew
Soo Guan stood out as one of the few places in George Town that served the exquisite “Colonial Hailam Style Australian Beef Stew.”
This hearty stew, cooked for hours to achieve fork-tender perfection, is a true culinary gem. Every bite offers a burst of flavors that will leave you longing for more.
Colonial Hailam Style Beef Stew
At Soo Guan, nostalgia meets culinary excellence, and this beloved dish’s rich heritage and taste will be deeply missed.
As we bid farewell to Soo Guan, I couldn’t help but reflect on the power of food to preserve traditions and create lasting memories.
It was a night filled with nostalgia, gratitude, and the appreciation of a culinary legacy.
And as I stepped out into the night, I noticed that the sun had set, and the street was bathed in the warm, steady glow emanating from Soo Guan.
A few remaining customers were still seated, savoring their Chicken Chop and engaging in quiet conversations.
Soo Guan
73, Lebuh Presgrave, 10300 George Town, Pulau Pinang
Permanently closed.
