Where is the best Char Kway Teow in Penang? Do all Char Kway Teow taste just about the same?
When we were knee-high to a grasshopper, the best Char Kway Teow was inevitably the one from the school tuck shop or canteen.
We’re talking about life in the 70s and 80s, yeah. I’m THAT old.
Do the Maths, kids, but don’t call me an aunty.
That’s reserved for your dad’s sister or mom’s sister.
Ask them about their favorite Char Kway Teow and listen to their story.
Listen.
Go about the mulberry bush with them.
As far back as I can remember (elephantine memory helps), Char Kway Teow was fried over a charcoal stove with an old uncle bent over, fanning furiously to start the flame dance.
That black cast iron wok, which is reputed to have never been washed, is a testament to what the young look for nowadays.
That elusive (Cantonese) “wok hey” is loosely translated as the breath of the wok.
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What is Char Kway Teow?
Char Kway Teow is Penang’s most famous street food. This beloved comfort food is much sought after by both locals and tourists.
While there are other versions in Malaysia, this famous version is called Penang Char Kway Teow, which distinguishes it from other Malaysian states.
Reputed to be cholesterol-laden, this plate of wok-fried flat rice noodles is greasy, oily, fragrant, and SCRUMPTIOUS!
The ingredients are simple and standard—flat rice noodles, soy sauce, bean sprouts, chives, cockles, and prawns.
Most stalls cook it with a chicken egg. But it is the duck egg that makes it extra creamy and delicious.
Shall I describe the aroma as glorious?
It makes regulars and fans salivate at the thought of a Char Kway Teow meal.
Penang Char Kway Teow Ingredients
Back then, Char Kway Teow featured delightful ingredients that have since vanished due to high costs and dwindling availability.
A sprinkle of crab meat.
Mud crabs, grilled over a charcoal BBQ, infused the dish with a mouth-watering smoky flavor.
The original shellfish? Long, thin razor or bamboo clams—super sweet and crunchy.
These gems are now rare finds, with most stalls resorting to cockles.
Freshly shucked blood cockles.
(No frozen, prep-packed stuff here!)
An assistant pries the clams open while they’re still alive, letting their blood drip into a bowl, then heaps them atop a plate of freshly fried Char Kway Teow.
And the prawns? They’ve doubled, tripled, and even quadrupled in size.
This wasn’t the case back then. Customers wanted extra value, and now it’s become the norm.
Is Penang Char Kway Teow Halal?
We Penang Hokkiens call it Bak Ewe—no other name needed.
When it comes to Char Kway Teow, we want it full of flavor, fried to perfection with charred, caramelized bits, and most importantly, cooked with pork LARD!
I often get asked, “What is lard? Is it animal shortening?”
Simply put, a pig’s life is cut short to render the fat under its skin into what we call pig fat oil, for those unfamiliar.
Nothing compares to the smoky aroma that lard gives—a richness vegetable palm oil can never replicate.
So, when asked to name the best, it’s safe to say none can match the original taste and ingredients.
Char Kway Teow Price
In the 80s, the priciest Char Kway Teow was right next to the Alor Setar Public Bank.
You could snag a plate for RM10, loaded with super-sized prawns, eggs, blood clams, and Chinese sausages.
Today, prices start at RM7.00 and can go well beyond that.
Where To Eat Char Kway Teow In Penang?
This quintessential Penang street food is a favorite among visitors and locals alike.
Most stalls are pushcart-style, commonly found in coffee shops, food courts, markets, and suburban areas.
You can find stalls open in the morning, afternoon, and evening, each with their own loyal followings.
Ask any Penangite, and they’ll gladly share their top recommendations.
Check out the stalls below for some satisfying eats!
Char Kway Teow Breakfast
In Penang, local men often go by the English versions of their Hokkien names—like Dragon (Ah Leng) and Tiger (Ah Hor).
Char Kway Teow stalls are typically named by their locations (like Siam Road Uncle) or by distinctive features (such as Red Hat Woman)!
I dined at the Red Hat before she became famous, but I wasn’t impressed by the taste, price, or attitude back then.
To me, Siam Road Char Kway Teow is nothing extraordinary, so I wouldn’t queue for it.
The stalls I’d recommend are Tiger Char Kway Teow and Perak Road Charcoal Char Kway Teow.
I’ll update this post once I get to try those!
There’s also a favorite stall at a kopitiam just before the roundabout at Ayer Item that has irregular hours.
I stopped by on Thursday, and once again, it was closed! Sigh.
Tiger Char Kway Teow (Morning Kopitiam)
This Kopitiam stall, operated by three generations of the Yeow family, has been serving delicious Char Kway Teow for over half a century.
Mr. Yeow, known as “Ah Hor” or “Tiger” in Hokkien, runs the stall, which has become more famous than the café itself.
Expect a packed crowd on weekends, so arrive early if you want to snag a plate or two!
You can find Tiger Char Kway Teow at Ping Hooi Coffee Shop, located at the junction of Carnarvon Street and Lebuh Melayu.
Tiger enhances the umami flavors of his Char Kway Teow by using fish sauce, but the real stars are the fresh, juicy prawns and bamboo clams.
The prawns are perfectly cooked—neither overdone nor tough—offering a slightly resilient, springy texture.
Travel Tip: Choose the red version of the dish only if you can handle the heat!
Unique Ingredients: Fish sauce mixed with soy sauce for that added umami kick.
Tiger Char Kway Teow (老虎炒粿条)
Kafe Ping Hooi
179, Lebuh Carnarvon, George Town, Penang
Business Hours: Daily from 8 AM to 2 PM (Closing days are irregular, depending on the coffee shop and hawkers.)
Sisters Char Kway Teow (Morning Kopitiam)
Since I was a young girl, the two sisters who run this stall have been serving up delicious Char Kway Teow.
This stall is a must-try for anyone wanting to experience Penang’s heritage street food. Sisters Char Kway Teow offers the classic prawn and egg dish, garnished with freshly peeled, boiled crab meat.
You might also notice an older man cooking the Char Kway Teow instead of the sisters.
The last time I visited was a few years ago, and of course, it happened to be a Monday (this has occurred far too many times!).
Update: July 25, 2019
The coffee shop where Sisters Char Kway Teow used to operate has unfortunately closed.
Travel Tip: The coffee shop has a cover charge of RM0.50 per person if you don’t order drinks.
Unique Ingredients: Crab meat garnish.
Siam Road Char Kway Teow (Afternoon Push Cart)
Manned by a father-and-son team, Siam Road Char Kway Teow was ranked 14th at the World Street Food Congress 2017 in Manila.
The 77-year-old owner, Tan Chooi Hong, and his son, Kean Huat, 53, operate this pushcart stall at the junction of Siam Road in Penang.
Their Char Kway Teow has garnered rave reviews, being described as “the classic traveling food cart on four wheels.”
They cook it over a wood-fired wok, and the smoky, smooth flavor is the reason for the long lines that form wherever they set up.
Despite their reluctance to seek fame, the duo found themselves thrust into the spotlight as photos of their Char Kway Teow circulated on social media.
The sudden influx of 40 hungry customers drove them into hiding, as they struggled to keep up with demand.
Last year, they even took a 10-day break after being overwhelmed by a massive surge of customers.
In the writer’s opinion, we must exercise wisdom when nominating hawkers for awards.
Winning isn’t everything, especially when it puts our elderly heritage hawkers to the test.
Updated: April 12, 2024
Siam Road Char Koay Teow
82 Jalan Siam, George Town, 10400, Malaysia
Michelin Bib Gourmand
This small stall draws long queues and operates for only half the day, primarily serving tourists and younger customers. They offer just one dish: stir-fried koay teow. The wok-fried flat rice noodles emit a delightful charcoal aroma, are well-seasoned, and feature quality ingredients that can be spiced to taste.
Are there any beloved Penang Char Kway Teow stalls off the social media radar?
The Chinese daily Kwong Wah Yit Poh (KWYP) has curated a list of Char Kway Teow locations across the city, making it easier for travelers to savor delicious dishes.
With these recommendations, food lovers can skip the long waits and dive straight into the flavors of Penang.
Each of these stalls is equally good, showcasing the passion of George Town’s hawkers.
In an updated report, Kwong Wah Yit Poh announced that Uncle Tan is temporarily taking a break for renovations at his new shop.
He plans to resume business in mid-June, but his Char Kway Teow will no longer be served from the roadside pushcart.
Travel Tip: Siam Road Char Kway Teow has no fixed closing days, generally operating from Tuesday to Sunday, 3 PM to 11 PM.
Unique Method: Charcoal fire
Char Kway Teow Supper
When visiting Penang, many travelers are disappointed to find their favorite Char Kway Teow stall closed. No worries—here’s a list of nighttime stalls that serve equally delicious options!
Perak Road Charcoal Char Kway Teow (Night)
This stall offers a satisfying Char Kway Teow featuring duck egg, prawns, Lap Cheong, and rice noodles.
While there are no extravagant giant prawns or mantis prawns, the superb wok hei delivers a delightful aroma and flavor.
Most patrons opt for takeaway, as seating is limited to just one or two tables.
Travel Tip: Don’t miss the red bean soup from the small stall next door!
Unique Method: Charcoal fire
Location: Perak Road Charcoal Char Kway Teow | First traffic light past Jalan Perak fire station | Business Hours: 7:30 PM – 11:30 PM (Closed on weekends)
Landmarks: Look for it on your left after the first traffic light past the Jalan Perak fire station when coming from Georgetown.
Kimberley Street Char Kway Teow (Push Cart Night)
I love bringing out-of-town friends to this pushcart stall at the junction of Kimberley and Cintra Streets, right in front of Kedai Kopi Sin Guat Keong.
This section of Chinatown comes alive at night, with numerous stalls at nearby kopitiams, creating a vibrant atmosphere.
While some might rave about the New Lane or MacAlister Road area, I prefer the charm of Kimberley Street.
Most Penangites are familiar with this stall, though opinions vary: some claim it’s the best.
While others find it overpriced with small portions.
The taste is hit or miss.
On good days, Uncle serves up a solid plate with delightful charred bits and smoky flavor.
However, consistency can be an issue—when he’s tired, the quality may slip.
Old habits die hard, and my friends and I keep coming back for that familiar taste!
Travel Tip: Feel free to order even if you’re seated at one of the kopitiams. I usually wait and serve myself since they can forget your order in a long queue.
Hygiene Note: Try to avoid sitting in Kedai Kopi Sin Guat Keong—it could use a good wash!
Unique Ingredient: Mantis prawns
Location: Kedai Kopi Sin Guat Keong | 86, Lebuh Kimberley, George Town, Penang
Operation Hours: 5:30 PM – 12:00 AM (Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday)
Bee Hooi Char Kway Teow (Push Cart Night)
Most Penangites take their visitors to the Pulau Tikus enclave to have a nice hawker feast.
Only the tourists go to the Gurney Drive area to eat. This is a fact.
The locals head to Bee Hooi Restaurant or the Pulau Tikus Night Market for dinner and supper.
I usually have Pasembor at Bee Hooi for some strange reason.
My friends have remarked that I only order this for supper at a Kopitiam.
My closest friends will know my two favorite haunts for supper, not hawker food.
<Grins> If you follow this blog closely, you will realize I have a penchant for bread rather than noodles.
One night, I was starving and ordered a Char Kway Teow.
It was already 10.30 PM.
What was I thinking?
I knew it was too late and too calorie and cholesterol-laden, right?
I walked through the stifling spicy smoke and ordered a plate.
Verdict: It is simply delicious and tastes better than the stall at Kimberley Street.
Bee Hooi Restaurant (Kopitiam Food Stalls)
415, Jalan Burma, Pulau Tikus, Penang
Business Hours: 6 PM – 11 PM
Halal Char Kway Teow
For a delicious halal version of this Penang classic, head to Bee Hwa Cafe, a favorite breakfast spot among Muslim travelers.
Here, you can savor authentic Char Kway Teow made without pork.
This delightful dish features prawns, cockles, fish balls, crab sticks, eggs, bean sprouts, garlic, chives, and a spicy chili paste—all stir-fried to perfection.
Enjoy it piping hot to fully experience that irresistible Wok Hey (breath of the wok)!
Bee Hwa Cafe
Address: 10, Lebuh Dickens, 10050 George Town, Penang
Landmark: Penang Contingent Police Headquarters
Tel: 04-263-6092
Hours: 7:00 AM to 3:00 PM (Closed on Sundays)
[Updated: 13/2/2023]
Cooking Char Kway Teow at Home
Known for its cholesterol-laden goodness, this plate of wok-fried flat rice noodles is irresistibly greasy, fragrant, and downright scrumptious!
For a healthier Sunday brunch, we prepare a one-pan Homestyle Char Kway Teow packed with Chinese chives, bean sprouts, fresh prawns, and crispy sio bak.
This delicious dish is guaranteed to impress even the pickiest eaters!
While individual servings are ideal, I typically prepare a generous batch of about 500g of koay teow for the whole family.
It’s a time-saving and delicious way to gather everyone for a meal.
Using a large non-stick pan (since I don’t have a well-seasoned wok) ensures the noodles don’t stick, making it easier to serve.
Perfect for those hungry teens who can polish off three plates each!
Char Kway Teow Recipe
Ingredients:
- Fresh Kway Teow (flat-cut rice noodles): 2 lbs (800g)
- Vegetable oil: 4 tbsp
- Dark soy sauce: 2 tbsp
- Garlic: 3 cloves (minced)
- Soy sauce: 2 tbsp
- Chili paste: 1 tbsp
- Fish sauce: 2 tbsp
- Ground pepper: ½ tsp
- Fresh prawns: 200g
- Roast pork: (amount to your preference)
- Bean sprouts: 200g (trimmed)
- Chinese chives: (optional)
- Minced Chinese preserved radish: 2 tbsp (for Char Kueh Kak)
Instructions:
- Prepare Kway Teow: Loosen up the Kway Teow and set aside. Peel thick strands and separate them.
- Heat Oil: In a large non-stick pan, heat the vegetable oil.
- Sauté Garlic: Add the minced garlic and sauté for 30 seconds.
- Add Preserved Radish: Stir in the minced Chinese preserved radish and fry for 3 minutes.
- Cook Prawns: Add the fresh prawns and cook until they turn pink.
- Combine Noodles: Add Kway Teow, chili paste, dark soy sauce, fish sauce, and ground pepper. Stir well to coat everything with the sauce (about 5 minutes).
- Fry Egg: Move the Kway Teow to one side, add a bit more oil, and fry the egg in the open space.
- Add Vegetables: Add the bean sprouts and continue to stir for 1-2 minutes.
- Serve: Remove from heat and serve immediately.
Cooking Tip:
- If your non-stick pan is too shallow, consider frying in two batches for better
Ready to satisfy your Char Kway Teow cravings?
Plan your Cuti Cuti Malaysia and visit Penang soon!