For over 50 years, this Penang Teochew Porridge has upheld the Asian Squat Tradition and thrived on Magazine Road, across from 1st Avenue Mall. It has nourished generations of workers in the city center.
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Penang Teochew Porridge
Sixty-year-old Kedai Kopi Bee Hong is one of Penang’s last bastions of Coffee Shops.
It stands ramshackle but charming. The entire Kopitiam is open without any walls or doors.
It is on the same level as the road, so when the table and chairs are stacked aside, one could ride a motorcycle.
Kedai Kopi Bee Hong is on Magazine Road, opposite 1st Avenue Mall.
Squat Instead: Embracing the Asian Squat
I know this sounds unusual.
When I take my friends around George Town, it is one of the traditional places I love to bring them.
One way to enjoy a bowl of simple, wholesome traditional Teochew porridge is to eat with the locals.
This older-generation Teochew porridge stall’s “chill” atmosphere attracts a healthy lunch crowd of old folks who crave a treat.
What is Penang Teochew Porridge?
A living heritage, the Teochew-style porridge stall has fed generations of workers and families living around the city center for more than half a century.
The porridge is still cooked in a tiny makeshift kitchen behind the stall.
There is an excellent variety of cheap eats, which is popular with the Penang working class.
The simple food is cooked in huge cauldrons and is plentiful.
All the dishes are served out in the open and uncovered.
The dishes are unpretentious and straightforward—just basic food.
There is no need for grading for stars.
The dishes are a little on the salty side.
When you order, the food is served on small plates with a piping bowl of porridge or rice.
The main difference between Taiwan Porridge and Teochew Porridge is that the dishes are cooked to order for the former.
How would you squat on the bench to eat?
Up close, you will see the sea of motorcycles or “iron horses” parked by the patrons outside the Bee Hong Kopitiam and pedestrians weaving their way through the chaos.
Patrons are often seen seated in the “Asian Squat” while slurping down bowls of hot porridge with small plates of “salty” dishes.
What is the Asian Squat?
One of the most peculiar sitting positions is on a low, small stool (sometimes double stools, one placed on top of another) perched on an extended bench.
You sit on the stool and draw your legs in until you appear to squat.
The position resembles what the Western world calls the “Asian Squat.”
Most long-legged Caucasians are not able to achieve this squat.
They tumble over!
Laborers and trishaw riders of yesteryear prefer this position when they eat.
The man standing up on the bench had just climbed up and hiked up and adjusted his trousers to squat on the little stool placed on the bench.
He orders his food as he stands and points to what he wants.
The dishes he ordered are passed over the trays of food sold, and he gets to chow down while squatting on the small stool.
Two stalls are selling the traditional Teochew Porridge here.
Why sit when you can squat?
What if you can’t do the Asian Squat?
Don’t worry if you’re Caucasian and have a problem squatting like me.
You could order the dishes and sit at the tables nearby to eat. Same food, different style.
Just another way of eating.
I don’t think I could ever balance myself squatting to eat – besides, it’s just not the thing for girls to do!
So, I opted to dine at the tables and chairs for those who prefer the modern way.
How to train for the Asian Squat?
The physiology of the deep squat is unique to Asians.
Most Asians learn to squat from a young age and balance themselves when they use squat toilets.
The Asian Squat’s complexity is that you have to bend at the hips, knees, and ankles.
A lot is going on as you learn to balance yourself so you don’t tip over.
The key element seems to be ankle flexibility.
Hence, children will have no problem squatting. Most adults lose this flexibility when they stop trying.
Does Body Type Affect Asian Squat Ability?
Body shape also seems to play an important role. Short limbs, big heads, and long torsos make it easier to balance.
Those with long legs have the worst squat, which is hard to balance.
My Favorite Orders at Asian Squat Teochew Porridge
I would drop by for a light lunch when I return to George Town.
The second stall has giant cauldrons of hot boiling soups.
- Radish Soup with Dried Cuttle Fish
- Bak Kut Teh Soup
- Black Bean Soup
- Chinese Watercress Soup with Pork Ribs
-
Peanut & Chicken Feet Soup
- Dehydrated Vegetable Soup (Choy Kon Tong)
- Black Vinegar Pig’s Trotter (Tkee Ka Chor)
I would love to order a big bowl of hot radish soup with dried cuttlefish.
I will take the soup with two side dishes, a Preserved Radish Omelet (Chai Poh Nooi) and a Chinese Shredded Cabbage Stir-Fry.
Review: Penang Teochew Porridge
One of the things I love about Penang is the few traditional places that are left intact.
Most of my friends enjoy my recommendations and are surprised that the food is tasty and nutritious.
I make it a point to visit whenever I can.
Old places like these quickly disappear and are part of the rich living heritage that makes George Town unique.
Kedai Kopi Bee Hong
161, 111, Jalan Magazine, George Town, Penang
Business Hours: 10.30 am to 5 pm from Thursday to Sunday.
Closing Update: Penang Teochew Porridge
Update 22 February 2021
According to a Kwong Wah Yit Poh Press Berhad report, the humble Teowchew porridge stall has ceased operating.
The notice in Chinese states that the vacant lot at Kedai Kopi Bee Hong is up for rental.
Updated 20 March 2022
According to Buletin Mutiara, the previous operator, Tan Jin Hock, aka ‘Ah Jin,’ ceased operations early last year (2021) after serving its loyal customers for almost 80 years.
Tan’s ‘squatting’ Teochew porridge stall was considered Penang’s last of its kind then.
A new operator, Ooi Yew Meng, aka ‘Ah Meng,’ decided to take up the stall and serve his authentic Teochew porridge. Guess what?
Ooi also retained the stools on benches so his customers could experience having their meal in a squatting position.
You’ll be happy to squat again for porridge!